The first night was spent going over threads and needles, how they work and why they are different. Before the class I didn't really think that there could be that much different between the tools, and, to be honest, I didn't really even realize that thread came in different gauges. Sure, some of it felt thicker, and some thinner, but, it's thread, right?
Thoroughly and well explained I now understand why you use a "jeans" needle on woven fibers, and a ball-point on knit fibers, and what the different numbers mean in regards to the fiber your working with.
First of all, the sizing gives both the US and EU sizing of the needle, and The larger the number the bigger the needle.
For Woven fabrics- ones that make a noise when pulled taught quickly
Shmetz Jeans Needle - Blue Tips
A "Jeans" needle is missleading, as it is for woven fabrics, not just denim. In fact, most "Jeans" needles you would not want to use on denim, as they don't have the girth for the fabric. The number lable for the needle, i.e. 80/12, 100/16 not only refers to the size of the needle, but the higher the number the more open the weave of the fabric. So, for denim, canvas or linen, which you can clearly see the weave of the fabric, and because of the thickness/density of the fabric you'd want to select a larger needle, like a 100/16 or a 110/18. For general cotton, depending on thread count, you'd be safer in the range of an 80/12.
Shmetz Quilting and Topstitch - Green Tips for the quilting, The topstitch needles have no color on the flat shank.
Both of these are intended to go through several layers of fabric, and will require a thicker thread. The size of the topstitch needle is 100/16 and is intended for specifically that. While the needle is thicker, as indicated by the larger number (100/16), it also has a larger groove or scarf for the thread to be protected by as it goes through all of those layers of fabric.
Shmetz Microtext Needle - Top flat shank is purple
These are very sharp for woven fabrics, and are intended for very high thread count fabrics such as silk, satin,and taffeta. The sizes of these needles are 60/8, 70/10, 80/12
Shmetz Embroidery Needle - Flat shank is red
Intended for embroidery thread only. Embroidery thread is super thin allowing you to get more thread in one area. Often, you will use an embroidery thread through you needle and a thread of equal weight, but less expensive in your bobbin, as it appears on the underside of your piece.
Shmetz Metallic Needle - No color on the flat shank
Intended for use with metallic thread only, and it is specially designed to help protect the weakness of the metallic thread / work with, not against the flaws of metallic thread that allow it to break more easily.
Shmetz Leather Needle - No color on the flat shank
Used with leather, vinyl, or plastic. It has a coating, like Teflon to keep it from sticking. However, if a leather needle isn't doing the trick on your leather you can get a titanium needle!
You'd also want to use one of these for sequins ... gosh, would have been great to know that before.
Much more info, of course, on the Shmetz site.
For Knit and Stretch fabrics - ones that don't make a noise when pulled taught quickly.
A needle that is too sharp will distort the fabric, as it will pierce holes in the fabric, causing it to deteriorate. Thus, a needle with a ball-point is used to "move" the fibers, instead of piercing through them.
Shmetz Stretch Needle - Yellow flat shank
Used on a more open weave knit, lower thread count.
Shmetz Ball Point Jersey
Used on a higher thread count, more closed weave knit
Universal Needles are neither really sharp nor ball-point round ... they are in the middle, and can be used with woven and knit fabrics together, or on something like linen, with really big structure. They are the compromise needle when woven or knit needles aren't appropriate.
And then there is ... the Twin Needle! which are two needles, side by side on one shaft. You'll need to be able to place to spools of thread, know how far apart you want the needles, what size you want the needles and if you are working with a woven or knit fabric.
So, onto the thread.
First off, you should be selecting a polyester or cotton (or other variety) of thread that coincides with the fabric you are using for the project. Don't use polyester thread on a cotton fabric, as the fabric is weaker than the thread, and vice versa.
Unlike the needles, the higher the number of the thread, the more easily it will break and the thinner it is.
Cotton Threads
60/2 - This is a size 60, 2 ply thread. It is very thin, and can be used for really light seams, pin tucking, and on very light fabric.
50/2 and 50/3 are 50, 2 ply and 50, 3 ply. This is pretty standard for most garment sewing. 2 ply will be better to use, but 3 ply may be preferable for topstitching.
40/3 and 30/3 you'd want to use with a topstitch needle and on thicker fabrics
Polyester Threads
There are three types
1. Embroidery, 40/3
- use with 60/2 ply in the bobbin
2. All purpose
- Can't use this on cotton because it is too strong for the fibers
- This will work on blended fabrics
3. Decorative
- Ok on both polyester and cotton fibers
So now, standing in front of the thread spools I feel ... overwhelmed.
I don't feel overwhelmed standing in front of the presser feet, though. On Thursday night we got to try out a number of different feet and features on our Bernina's. Let me state again, just how freaking much I love my Bernina Aurora 450 !!!!!
At the end of the class Santa may have purchased these two:
1. Button Sew-On Foot #18
2. Ruffler #86
This thing is amazing, and looks like a locomotive engine on my sewing machine, which for some reason, I think is the most fantastic thing ever.
Thank you Santa! I see these coming to a stocking near me.
I am making really great progress on my final project for my patternmaking class, but now I will not be able to get any more work done over the weekend as I have other obligations, which also included staying up until 12:30 last night making bakes beans from scratch on the grill. In case anyone is wondering, it is, in fact, freezing outside. However, the bean recipe is so good that it makes our entire courtyard smell of yumminess.
I also attended a preview for the draping class next semester.
It seams like fun, but a lot of work. So I need to spend some time thinking about my priorities ... maybe I should just take more classes at Eddie's Quilting Bee since I learned so much there in so little time! If you have never taken the time to learn about your machine, I suggest you take a day off from sewing to do it!
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